Thai panang curry paste punches up this pumpkin noodle soup

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In the summer of 2020, well before Americans had access to coronavirus vaccines, and while many businesses remained closed to the public, Wedchayan “Deau” Arpapornnopparat and his wife, Tongkamal “Joy” Yuon, opened a pop-up restaurant in Los Angeles. They named it Holy Basil, after the perennial shrub whose purple-tinged green leaves flavor many Thai stir-fries. Even before the pop-up turned into a food hall stall and spawned a sit-down restaurant, Arpapornnopparat and his team were starting nearly every dish with one of several homemade Thai curry pastes.

Years ago, following a recipe from a friend, I made red Thai curry paste from scratch with a mortar and pestle. Though it took me well over an hour of slicing and pounding and pulverizing and sneezing, I didn’t regret it. The dishes I made with that base of herbs, chiles and spices were incredible. But these days, short on time and energy, I reach for cans or jars of prepared curry paste when I’m looking to add the tastes of Thai chiles, lemongrass, galangal, ginger, garlic and makrut lime to saucy curries. I love how just a spoonful of this base of flavor can transform a pot of simple ingredients into something spectacular.

One day earlier this year, as I attempted to make sense of my messy pantry, I saw a can of pumpkin puree next to a can of coconut milk next to a can of Maesri panang curry paste. That’s the night this recipe for Panang Curry Pumpkin Noodle Soup – sweet, salty, sour and spicy – was born.

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But was it good enough to print? Would a Thai cook scoff at this combination? I contacted Arpapornnopparat, who was named a best new chef by Food & Wine magazine this year. When I reached him, he was at a gala for the Los Angeles Times’s 101 best restaurants. (Holy Basil is 33rd on this year’s list.)

“Canned curry pastes are convenient but are better if you add more aromatics,” Arpapornnopparat told me. His panang curry dishes start with red curry paste that’s then augmented with peanuts, cumin and coriander. Makrut lime leaves lend it a deeper, husky fragrance. “It’s traditional with meat, beef or pork in Thailand,” he said.

Holy Basil’s panang features short ribs, but Arpapornnopparat has also used the thick, nutty sauce with kabocha squash. Usually it’s served over rice, but noodles aren’t out of the question. Because it’s milder than other Thai curries, it’s popular throughout Southeast Asia. In the United States, you can find it with chicken or fish. In San Francisco, chef Pim Techamuanvivit incorporated it into a plant-based dish with purple asparagus and carrots.

As soon as I get back to Los Angeles next year, I’m lining up for some of Arpapornnopparat’s panang. Until then, I’ll be slurping this soup.

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Panang Curry Pumpkin Noodle Soup

Thai panang curry paste, with notes of peanut, coriander and cumin, gives this pumpkin soup its complex sweet-sour flavor. The paste contains red chiles; it’s easy to adjust the heat level to your liking by adding more or less.

This recipe calls for store-bought curry paste; look for Mae Ploy or Maesri brands. Optionally, to enhance and deepen this soup’s fragrance, add one or two makrut lime leaves, fresh or frozen, along with the curry paste. Pluck them out before serving.

Don’t skip the lime juice finish – it offsets the richness of the creamy coconut broth. Serve this soup with chopsticks and a spoon for easier eating.

servings 4

Total time: 30 minutes

Storage note: Refrigerate for up to 4 days.

Where to buy: Thai panang curry paste, such as Mae Ploy or Maesri brands, can be found in cans and jars at well-stocked supermarkets, Asian markets or online.

INGREDIENTS

1 tablespoon coconut oil or vegetable oil

3 shallots (7 ounces total), thinly sliced, divided

2 garlic cloves, minced or finely grated

One (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated

3 tablespoons red Thai panang curry paste (see Notes), plus more as needed

One (15-ounce) can light coconut milk

One (15-ounce) can pumpkin or butternut squash puree (not pie filling)

2 cups chicken or vegetable broth, preferably low-sodium, plus more as needed

10 ounces dried long noodles, such as lo mein

1 tablespoon coconut or light brown sugar, plus more as needed

1 tablespoon fish sauce, plus more as needed

8 sprigs fresh cilantro, for garnish

Lime wedges, for serving

DIRECTIONS

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat.

Meanwhile, in a medium (3-quart) pot over medium-high heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add three-quarters of the sliced shallots and cook, stirring often, until starting to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the garlic, ginger and curry paste, and cook, stirring frequently, until very fragrant, about 1 minute more.

Stir in the coconut milk, pumpkin or butternut squash puree, and broth until combined. If you prefer your soup thinner, add more broth until the desired consistency is reached. Bring the soup to a lively simmer and cook, stirring often, until the flavors have melded, and some of the fat from the coconut milk has risen to the surface, about 10 minutes.

Add the noodles to the boiling water and cook according to the package instructions. Drain, rinse and set aside.

Add the sugar to the soup, decrease the heat to low and stir in the fish sauce. Taste, and add more curry paste, sugar and fish sauce, if desired, until the soup tastes well-balanced in spice, sweetness and saltiness.

Divide the noodles and soup among four bowls, top with the remaining sliced shallots and the cilantro, and serve hot, with lime wedges on the side.

Substitutions: Pumpkin or butternut squash >> other types of squash, sweet potatoes or carrots, steamed and mashed, or pureed with an immersion blender into the sauce. Light coconut milk >> one (5.4-ounce) can coconut cream plus 1 cup water. Lo mein >> any dried long noodle, such as udon, ramen or spaghetti. Noodles >> cooked rice.

Notes: You can substitute Thai red curry paste for panang, but for the best flavor, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of peanut butter or sesame paste, such as tahini, and 1 teaspoon ground cumin.

Nutritional information per serving (1½ cups) | 466 Calories: 80g Carbohydrates, 0mg Cholesterol, 12g Fat, 5g Fiber, 14g Protein, 9g Saturated Fat, 692mg Sodium, 16g Sugar

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

From staff writer G. Daniela Galarza.

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